I had both been told and read about the scam buses that run from Khao San Road in Bangkok to Cambodia. So I had been warned !! But I just refused to believe that each and every bus would run a scam. After reading
this article, I found out that I would be hassled in Cambodia anyway if I would do it on my
own. So since I found out it would cost me more to get to the borders with public transport rather then with one of the Khao San buses I decided to take mini-bus aka "scam bus" to at least the border and see how it would go from there.
It all started out well, left just after 7 in the morning. Our luxury mini-bus was not even full so we had good space and air-con. Started seeing the signs to the borders and looked at my watch, thinking this is not to bad. It was about 10:30, and then we turned into this restaurant. The first scam stop. We had to change buses and wait for more people.
Then we were in for the second scam VISA service. 1200 bath for a VISA to Cambodia. I just did not see the point in buying that from them since we were on our way to the borders where we could just do it ourselves for 1000 bath so I declined the service and made miss popular with the guys there. Threatened to be left behind at the borders since it would take me much longer. I was not to worried because I knew that it was very unlikely that we would be leaving right away.
2 and 1/2 hours later and 2 people more and one old truck. We headed to the borders that was about 15 min away from the restaurant. It was just a normal border crossing, with grumpy men behind there desks, checking and stamping.
It was very visible as soon as we entered Cambodia, that the country is poorer than Thailand. A lot of street kids begging and a bit of a chaos going on. This border town is also known to be very unpleasant.
Next we got on a shuttle-bus to the government bus-station where we were supposed to catch our next bus. And according to things I had heard and read, this is where the scams really begin. They bus drives very slowly, stopping in restaurants for ages to make sure that you arrive late in Siem Reap, and usually it drops you off at some guesthouse, and you are kind of held hostage there. It is also a kind of a mafia around the bus station that makes sure that you can't get any other transport from there without them getting a cut. Even the police is in on it.
After waiting for my bus for 1 1/2 hour and at the same time trying to find some people to share a taxi, I met this Japanese girl that understood a bit Khmer and she could figure out that there was some problems with the bus and they had no clue when it would get there. They guys kept saying it would come within 20 min. By then it was almost 15:30 and I knew that it would take at least 6 hours to get to Siem Reap with a bus and about 3 hours with a taxi. I finally met this Australian couple that were willing to share a taxi and off we went from this rather unpleasant place.
I had heard that the road from here to Siem Reap was bad. But OMG I was not prepared for how bad it was. It is a dirt road with the biggest pot holes I have seen and just awful. I was so glad that we were driving in a car with seat belts and air con, but not on a old bus. But it got better. It started raining and the dry dirt road changed into a muddy and very very slippery road. We were skidding all over the place and got very close to hitting other cars and getting seriously bogged/stuck a few times. But in the end we arrived safely in Siem Reap. It was about 12 hours after I started my trip.